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Post by whistlerwhittler on Apr 8, 2009 14:51:50 GMT -5
After fleshing another beaver last night, I decided that I'll definitely be getting a different fleshing knife for next season. Right now I'm using a Russell skinning knife. It works, but it takes me a few hours just to do the fleshing on one beaver. So before I spend $50 - $80 on a knife I thought I'd ask your opinion. If I just plan to use it on beaver, would I be better off getting a Necker (or similar) or a Locklear Grizzle Getter? Also is the Grizzle Getter used on a fleshing beam like the Necker or is it used with the pelt laid out flat on plywood?
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Post by Itrapny on Apr 8, 2009 15:28:41 GMT -5
Haven't used the grizzle getter so I can't comment, but I've used both the Necker 600 & 700 and love thme both. Wouldn't flesh a beaver or 'coon again without a good knife.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 16:30:50 GMT -5
i've got both a necker 600 and necker 700 i use the 600 for coon,yotes and all other small critters but when it comes to them beavers i use the 700 makes fast work of them grizzly fat things.
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Woj
#3 Newhouse
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Post by Woj on Apr 8, 2009 18:42:59 GMT -5
I have only done one beaver myself but if I was going to get a knife solely for beaver fleshing, I think I would invest in one of those ALaskan Ulu's. I have read a couple books on skinning with them and I think it looks a little easier than when I did it with the Necker 700 I just bought.
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Post by Itrapny on Apr 8, 2009 19:23:07 GMT -5
I have an Ulu knife from my time in Alaska, not exactly what I would call a very efficient knife for fleshing in my opinion. I'll take my Necker anyday.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 19:36:55 GMT -5
What makes the 700 so much better than the 600, is it worth purchasing if I mainly flesh coon and K-9's?? (Sorry to stray from the main topic)
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Post by whistlerwhittler on Apr 8, 2009 21:54:35 GMT -5
What makes the 700 so much better than the 600 Yeah, I'd be interested to hear too. Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Woj
#3 Newhouse
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Post by Woj on Apr 9, 2009 6:28:27 GMT -5
Everything I have seen for beaver seemed like it would work well if you are putting beaver on a board. I guess the trick is that they are razor sharp. Never tried one but for $16, I might pick one up. If they don't work, I will use it to chop vegetables:)
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Post by AppleDoctor on Apr 9, 2009 15:47:25 GMT -5
i have a zepf fleshing knife. its light and works well for me. thats just my opinion
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Post by jimd on Apr 9, 2009 17:12:28 GMT -5
I'll try to post a picture of both the #660 and #700 necker together so you can see the difference between them. I havent tried my #700 yet but I got a couple beaver in the freezer, then I'll be able to comment more on these 2 knives.
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Post by otter04 on Feb 7, 2010 22:40:11 GMT -5
Dont belive you can purchase the 600 model anymore, unless there in left over stock somewhere.The 500, 600, 700 are basically the same knife. as they went from the 500 to the later models they narrowed the width of the blade and made the steel a little thinner. . Like everything else, as they came out with newer models, they took away from the original product. but it is still a great knife. They have a sharp side and a duller side for different needs.And its a real good knife, so it will serve you good. if you want a better beaver knife spend the money and get a zepher or a caribou. caribou has polymar handles like the necker's and the zeph has wooden handles.
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Post by jimd on Feb 8, 2010 2:19:02 GMT -5
they still make the #600 and #700.Never heard of the #500. The top picture is the #600, narrow blade, about 1 3/4" wide, very sharp on the outer edge, dull inside edge. Next is the #700. About 3" wide, very sharp on both edges. Thinner metal than the #600. This knife is great for coon and beaver
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Post by otter04 on Feb 8, 2010 6:39:58 GMT -5
When Necker started making there knife Jim, they started with the Model 500. I bought one way back when they came out. nice knife, thicker blade then the 600/ sharp one side and duller the other but still sharp. i never saw the 700 as when the 600 came out it was a thinner model,thinner metaled knife. so assuming the 700 was even lesser then the 600 i just figured that was the way they went. but after seeing the difference i wouldnt own a 700 anyway. i dont care for the Sheffield and that 700 looks like one to me.... not for me. but i bought and use the zeph and man what a razor thin knife for fleshing.thanks for the pics.
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Post by jimd on Feb 8, 2010 11:57:48 GMT -5
I went thru some old archives on another site and saw a picture of the #500. Nice looking knife.
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Post by whistlerwhittler on Feb 8, 2010 13:14:51 GMT -5
Thank you.
I ended up getting the Necker #600 for Christmas. As soon as I rig up my fleshing beam I'll try it on some coons. Any more beaver that I catch I'll have to case skin so that I can try the knife on them as well.
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Post by otter04 on Feb 8, 2010 14:02:08 GMT -5
its a good knife. you can case skin your beaver and i have fleshed them that ways. but if you open the beaver up and you flop the hide on your beam , start from the middle and work out. turning as you go. its no so bad either. enjoy !
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Post by otter04 on Feb 8, 2010 14:07:08 GMT -5
Yeah Jim, its a nice knife. i have used it for alot of stuff. not to different then your 600 just slight difference. like everything else, its what you get used to using and the job just gets done. Yours in Trapping.
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Post by whistlerwhittler on Feb 8, 2010 15:54:25 GMT -5
Thanks otter. I've got one open skinned beaver in the freezer. I'll try the knife first on the raccoons and then I'll give the beaver a shot.
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Post by gibb on Feb 12, 2010 6:19:46 GMT -5
I have a necker 500 the curve to the blade is different then the 600. I skin about 100 beaver a year with it. Starting at the neck and cutting down to the tail. I push off each side with the dull side of the blade and shave the center with the sharp side. Also use my necker for otter fleshing using only the dull side. Jim
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Post by johnrockwood on Feb 12, 2010 9:19:49 GMT -5
I would highly suggest, especially for a beginner, NOT hanging the beaver skin over the beam in the middle of the skin. Over 40 years ago I was taught to hang the skin by the nose and/or use the leg holes on the end of the beam. You work from those leg holes, leaving the flesh around the hole til last as it helps maintain strength at that point so that the leg holes don't rip out as your working. As gibb said, the fat on the sides of the skin push right off relatively easily. The rest has to be shaved off with a very sharp edge of the knife. Once you get used to it, the sharper the better. Mine is as sharp, maybe sharper, than my skinning knives. I just had a trapper bring me some beavers. He'd done a perfect job on the smaller sizes - the easier ones. He had a very hard time with an xl beaver. He was using a brand new necker knife. The edge wasn't sharp enough for those big old tough beavers. He had been draping the skin over the end of the beam, then scrubbing very hard with the knife trying to push the meat off. He had literally rubbed all the fur off in some spots where the skin had been against the nose of the beam and scrubbing around as he tried to flesh the beaver. Needless to say, he had badly damaged the beaver value wise although he never put a hole in it and didn't have the beaver fleshed properly either. I finished fleshing the beaver for him. On my first pass with my knife he stopped me to feel the edge of the knife and realized the huge difference. He also realized why I utilize the leg holes to hold the skin in place on the beam - no rubbed off or damaged fur anywhere. Beaver are hard work, at least the bigger ones are. I've been catching and handling more than a few of them for somewhere around 42 years. I keep looking for an easier way, but ................................... the only thing I can come up with is to quit trapping them and quit buying them green...............I guess that's probably not going to happen ;D Everyone has to develop a system that works for them. Nothing is right or wrong if it works for you and accomplishes the desired result without damage to the skin or fur.
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Post by whistlerwhittler on Feb 12, 2010 10:16:35 GMT -5
Thanks John. How do you sharpen your fleshing knife?
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Post by johnrockwood on Feb 12, 2010 10:33:29 GMT -5
A fine flat file and then a steel. The file is a chainsaw raker file. My knife only has one side as well so several inches down from each handle is almost razor sharp, the middle of the knife is left dull for pushing off the easy stuff, scraping coon, etc. I file a flat, square edge on that middle part. It's something I was taught when given the knife by an old furbuyer back when I was young and buying fur for him. He gave me the knife and beam and I'm still using it today. The beam is getting a bit thin in one spot though The knife originally came from England and was well over $100 when bought new way back when. Good steel !
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Post by trappermac on Feb 13, 2010 13:16:22 GMT -5
I use a Necker 600 myself...beaver, the only animal that works up a sweat in a cold fur shed while fleshing........
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