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Post by bruce on Sept 21, 2014 15:11:59 GMT -5
Please bare with me with these newb questions, I have done searches for everything I am asking but these are the ones I don't see answers to. I have tons of re-bar available but no welder to weld any tee's or caps on top. I do have an oxy-acetylene torch so I could either braze a cap on top or what I think might be more secure would be to heat the re-bar cherry red and make a very tight U- bend in it with maybe 8"-10" coming back around which would also getting pounded into the ground. Does this sound okay to do or will they get pulled out. Just to be clear the re-bar would be around 18" deep.
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tmc
#2 Newhouse
Posts: 2,449
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Post by tmc on Sept 21, 2014 17:32:56 GMT -5
Hey, Bruce. I'm certainly no expert but here is all I do with rebar, and it's all I've done since I started using it more than 35 years ago. Get ready now, 'cuz it's ultra-technical: I take a #4 (1/2") rebar, and one 5/8" nut. I place the nut on the ground, preferably concrete or some other hard, durable surface out of doors so that I will have a reasonable assurance of being alive long enough to repeat the process without my wife arranging for my premature demise. Next, I insert one end of the rebar into the nut, pounding it into the nut if it doesn't readily go in at first. Hopefully by now you've realized that I was joking about the ultra-technical part, kind of tongue-in-cheek, but I'm not joking about the simple process I'm describing here. I get the rebar about 1/4" out the other side of the nut, and then take a hand sledgehammer and an anvil (or whatever you've got as an anvil substitute) and lay the nut on the anvil so that one of the 6 flats of the nut rests on the anvil, preferably the one that lines up best with the ribs of the rebar, and then pound the opposite top side of the nut for all I'm worth to flatten/distort it. You'll see exactly what I mean when you try this. No matter what I've ever caught, nothing has ever been even close to strong enough to dislodge that nut from the top of the rebar. I used to place a 3/4" washer below the nut for added security but I gave that up as an unnecessary step about 30 years ago. I just run the rebar through a crunch-proof swivel, attach it however to the trap chain ad voila! good to go. Of course, being me this may not even answer what you were asking but that's how I read it, so... I hope it helps. I really love simple. And cheap. This fits the bill on both counts.
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Post by bruce on Sept 21, 2014 17:55:27 GMT -5
No you answered my question perfectly and I love the simplicity as well as the cost effectiveness of the design, I have plenty of both of those items on hand at all times. So simple even a newbie can do it. Thanks for the help, Bruce.
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tmc
#2 Newhouse
Posts: 2,449
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Post by tmc on Sept 21, 2014 18:27:54 GMT -5
Another thing is, pounding the stakes in will, over time, slightly mushroom the rebar adding even more meat to keep the nut on. Good luck!
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Post by bruce on Sept 21, 2014 18:41:44 GMT -5
Right, I was thinking maybe I'll help it in that direction and heat just the head of the re-bar then give it a good pounding on the anvil.
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tmc
#2 Newhouse
Posts: 2,449
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Post by tmc on Sept 21, 2014 18:47:50 GMT -5
lol, you just really want to MELT something, don't you?!?!?! Be careful, I know you probably know a lot about metal BUT -- rebar won't really shatter when you strike it, but maybe heating it like that can make it a bit brittle and then you MIGHT have issues. Honestly, I've never done a THING except exactly as I described earlier. Exactly. IMHO, anything and EVERYthing else is overkill. But to each their own, c'est la vie!
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Post by bruce on Sept 21, 2014 18:56:02 GMT -5
Yeah but if i can't over complicate the insanely simple tasks then what fun is it. No in all honesty, after driving those nuts on there I'm sure I'll see that it is more than stout and call it good.
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Post by coalminer on Jan 21, 2015 22:06:23 GMT -5
If u have access to a hyd. Press, slid th nut on and go bout 30 tons on the gauge, works well. Also saves the arms.
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