|
Post by dinorocks on Dec 9, 2013 10:45:46 GMT -5
I have a hard time fleshing beavers…I don’t do enough of them to develop good techniques to remove the tough “flesh” around the back neck area, etc. I have been to a few skinning demos and understand the concept (again, I need more practice). Last year at one of the auctions I attended, I saw a lot (group) of beavers that were cased (put up on wire stretchers) and sold at the “oval” rates. I tried casing a few smaller beaver and found that scraping them when cased was much easier then when they were opened up…i.e., the hide would not slide off my beam. It was easier to skin them too. Last night I cased one of my larger beaver then opened him (head to tail) so I could but him up on a board…didn’t work out as planned as I need to trim a section of fur from the back leg area (sticking out of my “oval”) and ended up losing a size (or so). I will be able to use the removed section (cut up into patches) for mink sets so not a total loss.
My question…are beavers put up cased (let’s say small to med) typically going to fetch the same price of the same size beaver put up flat in oval shape? Is this “common” practice? …maybe the fur buyers bought them because they were unique? I have not seen this method in the fur handler documents I have.
The other question…if I should stay away from putting up some of the smaller beavers cased, maybe there is a technique that would allow me to still case the beaver (for easier fleshing) without losing a section from the back legs.
Any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dino
|
|
|
Post by trappermac on Dec 9, 2013 10:51:26 GMT -5
Your questions regarding methods are because you're having a hard time fleshing. Stick with the root cause, fix that...what type of beam and scraper are you using?
|
|
|
Post by dinorocks on Dec 9, 2013 11:15:05 GMT -5
I agree what you are suggesting. I was a bit embarrassed last year when some (most) of my beaver still had fat on them when I sold them.
My scraper...http://www.minntrapprod.com/Professional-Fleshing-Knives-Set-of-all-3/productinfo/PK-SET/...is a standard two handled, straight, single beveled blade. Do you suggest a better/different draw knife…one that has double blades (one of which that is sharp so I can slice the hard fatty areas instead of pushing)?
And my beam...http://www.minntrapprod.com/Grade-A-Fleshing-Beam/productinfo/GRAD-A48/...again, standard coon/fox size. I made a smaller one for rats. I use my abdomen to hold the overhanging beaver against the beam…I have a hard time from keeping it from slipping down when scraping.
Thanks for any help!
|
|
|
Post by trappermac on Dec 9, 2013 11:47:10 GMT -5
Dino...I can't tell you how much better a Necker 600 works over the ones you're using. Beaver are never a cinch but using a good tool meant for them helps tremendously, you'll be surprised how well the Necker works on coon as well. Any beam should work, have it angled (or hinged) up against a wall so that it's a comfortable angle for your back, then hang the middle of the beaver over the nose of the beam as this will give you more hide to lean into and hold better. Easier to show than to describe. Hope this helps.
|
|
|
Post by dinorocks on Dec 9, 2013 12:08:41 GMT -5
Thanks Mac! Do you know what makes the scraper better...are the blade(s) sharper or curved? I will look one up and keep my eyes open for a used one...should I be cautious of a used Necker?
|
|
|
Post by trappermac on Dec 9, 2013 13:39:15 GMT -5
Sharper, hold an edge better, are beveled at an efficient angle, one side is dull for pushing, other side is sharp...I mean knife sharp and with the right motion the fat peels away easily on a beaver using that side. Use the sharp side where you have to, duller side to push once you have those tough areas fleshed with the sharp side.
|
|
|
Post by dinorocks on Dec 9, 2013 14:01:13 GMT -5
Thanks...I still have time to get it added to my Christmas list (version 4)!!! Sounds like it would help me with my coon too (back of neck).
|
|
|
Post by ecgreen on Dec 11, 2013 14:41:16 GMT -5
Clean skin...I have tried a bunch of knives and all of them make me sweat. Clean skinning never does and it is a cool art to learn.
|
|
redneck315ers
i got the trapping bug and i see u dont have to lay steel to get it
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by redneck315ers on Dec 11, 2013 19:34:48 GMT -5
I wish I could lol my beaver was some work not to bad I had some good help
|
|
|
Post by ecgreen on Dec 12, 2013 5:41:16 GMT -5
I wish I could lol my beaver was some work not to bad I had some good help My first beaver took me forever! I can relate. I started clean skinning last year and just took my time. Now I can do a beaver from first cut to board in around 45 min to an hour.
|
|
redneck315ers
i got the trapping bug and i see u dont have to lay steel to get it
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by redneck315ers on Dec 12, 2013 8:30:58 GMT -5
With the help I got that's about what it took and got casters and oil out I love the smell of casters
|
|
|
Post by ecgreen on Dec 12, 2013 8:33:58 GMT -5
Then you are doin' really well IMHO! My first beaver I tried to flesh. All I had was a dull cheap-o flesher knife. It took hours.
I love castor too. Until it gets on the meat! Dont taste too good.
|
|
redneck315ers
i got the trapping bug and i see u dont have to lay steel to get it
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by redneck315ers on Dec 12, 2013 8:45:57 GMT -5
Was told the same thing lol the man who helped me did half and I did the other half still needs to be put up
|
|
|
Post by jimd on Dec 29, 2013 0:34:57 GMT -5
Whether you use a cheap knife or expensive, it should always be a double edge knife. The convex side should be kept very sharp and concave side, slightly dull. I started years ago with a single edge knife. Very big mistake. It took forever to flesh coon and beavers
|
|
|
Post by partimetrapper on Dec 29, 2013 7:38:59 GMT -5
If you still like the cased beaver without loss just cut off feet and tail and split only a third up from the tail as if you were going to open skin and now work legs freeu can always open belly cut up more if needing more room. This may not be the fastest but works for me as I dont do many good luck with your beaver
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2013 20:16:28 GMT -5
First beaver I "tried" to flesh ended up in the corner of the shop! I was so mad after spending an hour on it and getting nowhere. The next season, I started practicing with the sharp blade of my necker. I can now flesh a beaver in 10-15 minutes and I actually look forward to it. Once you get the slicing notion down, they are a breeze... I half case skin my beaver so they stay on the beam better, Then I finish opening them up when I board them.
Get a necker, worth every penny!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2013 20:47:26 GMT -5
Too bad they don't make the necker 700 now there ia sweet fleshing knife bought one from Jimd and it has been worth every penny i spent on it do my yotes with it and can flesh a blanket beaver in minutes with a shaving stroke that takes the meat and grizzle off like butter!
|
|
redneck315ers
i got the trapping bug and i see u dont have to lay steel to get it
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by redneck315ers on Dec 29, 2013 22:01:52 GMT -5
Got mine in the mail this week and I have a beaver and two nice coons in the freezer to work on but I may have to get some more opossoums
|
|
|
Post by dinorocks on Dec 31, 2013 14:57:00 GMT -5
NYREDFOX and PARTIMETRAPPER...thanks for the info regarding casing...that is they way I was told but forgot to start that way.
|
|
cooper67
#2 Newhouse
oswego county trappers ,nysta,jefferson county
Posts: 2,554
|
Post by cooper67 on Dec 31, 2013 19:53:25 GMT -5
i use a zep fleshing knife the shaving side of the knife is razor sharp, as with the necker, the first couple of animals will be practice as getting the nack of shaving the flesh off takes times,i remember my first beaver had more holes in it than you can imange good thing for hatter beavers, a good fleshing knife is a thing to have & cherish dont throw it aroud & get the sharp side knicked or dull, take your time & you will learn when to shave & when to push after you have done a couple of beaver & coon.
|
|
redneck315ers
i got the trapping bug and i see u dont have to lay steel to get it
Posts: 1,099
|
Post by redneck315ers on Jan 2, 2014 14:41:23 GMT -5
thanks coop
|
|