|
Post by drakagem4a1 on Oct 27, 2010 21:10:52 GMT -5
Just fleshed a coon for the first time tonight...I mustve sliced about 20 holes in it. What am I doing wrong? I combed all the mud/dirt out of it, and it still was ripping pretty easily. I'm using a Necker knife. Also, theres alot of smaller red tissue spots that seem near impossible to remove. Do they have to come off too? Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by northcountry on Oct 27, 2010 21:28:01 GMT -5
Did you get all the burrs off? A small, red soft tissue spot is not a big deal to leave on and let dry - not worth going after if you are damaging leather to get it.
|
|
Woj
#3 Newhouse
Posts: 3,381
|
Post by Woj on Oct 27, 2010 22:01:33 GMT -5
One of the things that I learned is to use the dull edge on most of the coon. Shave up near the neck with the sharp edge but push the fat off the rest. I did my first coon with a Necker 700 which didn't have a dull edge. . . big mistake for an amateur like me. Pushing it off with the dull edge worked much better from my handmade knife.
|
|
|
Post by jimd on Oct 28, 2010 1:33:50 GMT -5
its very important to brush out your coon first of all. before you start any fleshing, make sure the outer edge is very sharp for shaving from the ears down between the shoulders. This spot doesnt show up very good while fleshing but when you let the leather dry, you will see what looks like a triangle of fat from the ears pointing down between the shoulders. Its best to shave this off. you will see the grain of the leather clearly once you cut thru this fat. Once this spot is clear, turn your blade over and plow the rest of the fat off the hide. If you sharpen the inside blade at all, file only the beveled edge til slightly sharp then run the file once or twice along the flat edge, this will roll the edge towards the bevel so it slides over the leather instead of cutting in.
|
|
|
Post by drakagem4a1 on Oct 28, 2010 8:34:08 GMT -5
thanks guys..maybe when the necker dulls down some it wont cut as bad either.
|
|
|
Post by jimd on Oct 28, 2010 11:31:09 GMT -5
take a piece of steel and slide along the edge of the blade to take the sharp edge off
|
|
Woj
#3 Newhouse
Posts: 3,381
|
Post by Woj on Oct 28, 2010 19:58:52 GMT -5
You'll really like that Necker when you get your first beaver. That's when it shines
|
|
|
Post by armymedic2 on Oct 29, 2010 5:04:09 GMT -5
do not dull the knife!!!! get a cheapy to start with if you want. you will want that necker when you learn it.
|
|
|
Post by ecgreen on Oct 29, 2010 6:45:36 GMT -5
Neckers are too fancy for me and I screw up every time. I use a cheap fleshing knife that is dull as heck for coon. For the shoulder and tail area, I use a very sharp skinning-type knife to start the gristle part. Works better for me, but everyone is different. Keep messing with it until you find what works for you. I was pretty bummed the first time I ruined a hide. Its normal though, so dont worry. I dont think anyone just jumped in and did an awesome job their first time.
|
|
|
Post by trappermac on Oct 29, 2010 12:05:56 GMT -5
Wouldn't think of fleshing a coon without my necker. Like JimD says, after you get that area up at the shoulders plow the rest of that fat off. Use that dull side and plow, it goes pretty easy after you get the feel for it. Don't get frustrated if you mess a few up, that's how you learn. Another way to make it easier is to freeze that hide for a few days and then flesh it after it thaws. Rolls off real easy then.
|
|
|
Post by drakagem4a1 on Oct 29, 2010 13:06:09 GMT -5
Awesome thanks for the advice everyone...Id rather not dull the edge on that necker, so I'll try starting just with the shoulders then pushing down dull edge next time..I've heard unprime coon are hard to flesh anyway, and this was a recently lactating female, so it will probably only get easier. Glad I got to practice on crappy fur!
|
|
|
Post by frontiersman on Nov 2, 2010 9:50:56 GMT -5
I wouldn't dull the necker. Just use the sharp edge to start the back of the neck, then swich to the dull side. How is your beam set up? Do you push or pull when fleshing? I personally prefer it set up to push, but it's a preference thing. Keep trying. This video may help: www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOGa_VF1Hoo
|
|
|
Post by drakagem4a1 on Nov 2, 2010 16:17:39 GMT -5
my beam is set up for pushing, and theyre gettin easier everytime now..about to do one that i froze for about 18 hours, we'll see how that goes..big fatty female
|
|
|
Post by rusty on Nov 3, 2010 19:18:50 GMT -5
The past few years i have sold my coon green and only putting up a few now i am putting all my coon up on wood and wonder how you get every thin layer of fat off without the fur pulling from the backside . I am pushing it off it just comes right off but to get every lil bit i see the fur to pull from the flesh side . Also when drying on a board the hide is nice and dry besides where the little bit of fat was left behind and i mean very little . How much is left behind when you scrape your coon ?
|
|
|
Post by Itrapny on Nov 3, 2010 19:42:31 GMT -5
Fleshing is something that comes with practice. When you flesh correctly you shouldn't have any fat left on the pelt but you also shouldn't see the roots of the hairs coming through. The more that you do, the easier it will get
|
|
|
Post by inthewoods on Nov 3, 2010 20:04:39 GMT -5
i have a necker knife too fleshed a fox my son shot last year 1 st one i fleshed put a couple holes in it. purchased a cheapo at gander with dull blade gonna try it till i get alot more practice still gotta flesh my coon and my sons bobcat he shot. hope i get good results but its all new to me. but loving every minute of it. skinned um out nice even did cat with feet on.
|
|
|
Post by jimd on Nov 4, 2010 14:06:43 GMT -5
dont forget to brush the burrs out before you flesh anything. Its the main reason for fur damage. Even a dull knife will cut thru if there is anything stuck in the fur.
|
|