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Post by wmthrower on Jan 3, 2006 7:49:37 GMT -5
I have always sold my beaver skinned but not put up. This year I wanted to do the whole thing. I've put up 4 from over the holidays. My question is in the fleshing. How much fat and grizzle needs to be taken off? Especially along the spine. I can get the sides right down but I am having a heck of a time with the center. Maybe I need a sharper fleshing knife? Any tips are welcome.
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Post by Itrapny on Jan 3, 2006 9:42:11 GMT -5
Welcome to the world of beavers ;D Unfortunatly all the meat, fat and gristle has to be removed form the pelts for them to dry properly. If you have an older style knife it probably won't work very good for beaver. You need to get yourself a Necker style knife, one that has 2 sides, a sharp side and a REALLY sharp side. You actually have to shave the gristle off the pelt, espicially near the tail area using the REALLY sharp side.
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Post by wmthrower on Jan 3, 2006 10:47:13 GMT -5
I was kind of thinking that. I have them boarded right now. Should I take them off the boards and shave the rest of the gristle off with my 2 sided knife or is there another way I should do it? I bought an ice auger sharpener to try on my knife. Maybe that will get it sharp enough to cut the gristle.
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Post by Itrapny on Jan 3, 2006 11:39:04 GMT -5
Have they started to dry yet? If they have already dried I don't know about taking them off and rescraping them, haven't run into that one yet. Your ice auger sharpener should work good for putting an edge on your knife though.
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Post by wmthrower on Jan 3, 2006 12:01:24 GMT -5
They have started to dry on the edges where I took everything off but mostly are still able to be worked. I guess I'll have to devote some time to them tonight. After I sharpen my knife first though.
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Post by anders on Jan 3, 2006 16:07:03 GMT -5
wmthrower, I would use a Dexter beaver knife(9.95) for the tough spots, you can get that grisle on the flank off while its on the board if it isn't dry. Andy
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Post by mole on Jan 3, 2006 18:49:45 GMT -5
wmthrower,While your beaver is on the board you can flesh the tough spots with what I call the old B&L fleshing tool. It sort of looks like a double sided hoe. Before I went to the beam,I fleshed all my beaver with one,and it was a lot. its used in a back and forth motion. you slice and pull. I hope this is of some help to you. Ed
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Post by wmthrower on Jan 4, 2006 7:42:33 GMT -5
I have been using my Dexter knife Andy. I think that I could learn how to clean skin by the time its over. Mole, is that tool with the screwdriver like handle with a double edged square piece of metal on the end? I thought about using one of them. I don't have one but I think that my cousin does. Thanks for the help guys. I did unboard one beaver and I refleshed it with a sharper fleshing knife. It worked better but it was still a lot of work. I think if the hides were cooler it might help. Is that right?
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Post by mole on Jan 5, 2006 4:10:05 GMT -5
wmthrower,What you described sounds like the tool. as far as being cooler,it doesn't matter. I have found that within reason the more flesh on a beaver hide the easier it is to flesh. Its better not to try skinning as close as possible. If you keep your tools sharp its not that bad.a little time consuming but with practice it gets better. Take Care and have fun Ed
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Post by wmthrower on Jan 5, 2006 8:17:04 GMT -5
Thanks Ed. I have one more to do. Can't seem to devote a whole night to the fleshing with things going on at home. How long does it usually take to dry a beaver pelt? Some are drying pretty well but others are taking awhile. The temps are in the 30's so i'm not worried about spoiling but was wondering how long it does take.
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Post by mole on Jan 5, 2006 18:42:28 GMT -5
Hello again, Drying a beaver pelt,depends on the temperature. 30 is a little cool,it will take longer. I dry mine at about 65-70. If the fat and flesh are gone they wont spoil,they will dry. It is also a good idea to give them a wipe with a clean rag to get the oil that sweats out. Take care Ed
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Post by wmthrower on Jan 6, 2006 7:49:47 GMT -5
Thanks for the help guys. I can't really put heat in the shed due to the attached barn full of heat. So I'll just let them dry slowly. I don't need the boards right now so I guess it doesn't matter how long it takes.
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