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Post by trapperjohn on Dec 28, 2005 18:40:58 GMT -5
This foot was in my trap Also there was all kinds of coyote tracks all over the place. I know what ever was in the trap was taken by the coyote. I would like to know what it is so if anyone could please help me to identify it?
Deleted your picture as we do not need the wrong people seeing a picture like this & used against us as trappers.
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Post by Dave Leibig on Dec 28, 2005 18:58:13 GMT -5
Possible a Crow that became a predator chew toy.
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Post by king368m on Dec 28, 2005 20:34:20 GMT -5
It might be a small owl, I am not sure either, The claws on the foot look a little big for a crow in my oppinion.
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Post by Itrapny on Dec 28, 2005 20:39:58 GMT -5
Claws don't appear to be sharp enough for a bird of prey, I'm with Dave on this one, probably a crow.
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Post by timwilcox on Dec 29, 2005 0:55:22 GMT -5
Deleted your picture as we do not need the wrong people seeing a picture like this & used against us as trappers.
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Post by mole on Dec 29, 2005 4:13:24 GMT -5
I didn't see,so I dont know. This is the main reason that you must have pan tension on your trap. you dont need to be catching birds. Ed
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Post by trapperjohn on Dec 29, 2005 8:53:21 GMT -5
Posted by mole on Today at 4:13am
I had 1lbs. pan tension. Also would like to let everyone to know that this was a dirt hole set.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2005 10:49:38 GMT -5
TrapperJohn, I did not see the photo either but I'm with Mole on the pan tension recomendation. You need to have 2 1/2 to 3 lbs tension on those coyote traps if you want to prevent most small animals and birds, and even frost heave from setting them off. There is another benifit to running more and even pan tension on your canine traps. In NY, since we are only allowed a #2 size trap on land at most with a limit of 5 3/4 " jaw spread you will find that you want that trap to go off only when a coyotes foot is centered on that pan. If you run such light tension you will find alot of snapped traps and toe holds , as you will have the trap snapping even when a jaw is stepped on. If you nite- latch your traps and tighten the tension screw down it will help, but a positive pan tension system like Paws-trip is even better. I have gone to them on all canine traps and really like them as they put a even known tension on the pan. If you nite-latch, shim the pan post with brass or teflon washers so you get the sides of the pan post parrell with each other and can achive an even drag or tension on the pan, when the screw is tightened.
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Post by trapperjohn on Dec 29, 2005 14:13:54 GMT -5
What is a paws-trip system i do not know?
Posted by Bobber on Today at 10:49am
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2005 10:39:01 GMT -5
Trapperjohn, the Paws-I-Trip product is a pan and dog system that is designed to replace the factory dog and pan on your traps. This pan system has a low profile, the trip weight differtial factor advantage, zero pan wobble, minimal creep, and zero lift after bedding during freeze/thaw conditions due to the stop button on the trap dog. You can order them from many supply dealers. Minn. Trapline products and Sterlings are a couple. They do add a bit to the cost of your traps though, and I suggest you buy a kit and try them to see if you like them for your use. They are standard equipment on Coyote Cuffs traps and the better beaver traps like the CDR's and Duke #5 dls. They use them on these for the same reasons : less non-target catches and snapped traps due to sloppy pan action. The nite-latching I mentioned works well also, but I have found that I still have problems with it and I like a heavier pan tension for dirt sets for the reasons mentioned. I will add that I nite-latch everything else I don't have these kits on. I know many will say that these PIT kits are to expensive, and the traps mentioned with them as standard equipment are over priced. You can, of course, catch things without them, and this is only part of the equation. My experience though, is that they have helped me with the ratio of snapped traps vs traps that get solid holds when they fire. I do not , even as a spare time hobby trapper, want to check empty traps due to to factors that are within my control. The trap is the final link between you and the catch and it is best to use the best you can afford to use. Hope this helps and you try them as I know you will like them.
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