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Post by mole on Dec 8, 2006 21:00:03 GMT -5
I havent tried this ;just thinking. some have trouble bedding a trap solid. especially the loose jaw. this is a clothes pin supporting the loose jaw. What is your thoughts? Thank You Ed
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Post by king368m on Dec 8, 2006 22:08:33 GMT -5
i would think it would work. Give it a try and let us know
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Post by mikespring on Dec 9, 2006 9:43:49 GMT -5
Why would you want to bed the trap solid?...are you planning on building something rather large on top of it??? ;D
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Post by mole on Dec 9, 2006 10:45:57 GMT -5
10,000 comedians out of work,guees where they all come.
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Post by adirondacktrapper2 on Dec 9, 2006 11:46:02 GMT -5
hahahaha good one mike!!!!lol
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Post by bballou on Dec 9, 2006 21:21:44 GMT -5
Ed; Why not give it a try------- all it can cost ya is some time------ I think you may need a pin on ea. end of the jaws of a sq. jaw trap------ other wise ( I think) the trap will remain in a wobble state.----- Never had any wobble problems with bedded traps---- but of course my instructors would check ea. trap when I was learning and yell there heads off at me if they could make the trap move in the bed. Give it a try and let us know how you make out. ( By the way Ed what else would you do in the Dacks in Jan and Feb.) LOL BILL
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Post by mole on Dec 10, 2006 5:01:48 GMT -5
Thank You Bill.The two points make sense. Charles Dobbins spoke of a man that pinned the whole trap from the outside. Dont remember the whole story. Anyone that has spent anytime in the Adirondacks; all my life,will know that our soil conditions are very poor. I work in a lot of sand and gravel which is different than a humas material. Thanks again, maybe this will help some one also. Ed
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Post by Dave Leibig on Dec 10, 2006 5:39:45 GMT -5
Ed, That is the same principle as the power bedding technique. He uses wooden pegs. It is a good method to use if you have a digger, The animal can't flip the trap over. The trap can only be lifted straight up...Dave
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Post by bballou on Dec 10, 2006 7:29:41 GMT -5
Ed: I think the guy Dave is refering to is named Jim Cuttiff of something like that ------ he wrote a book a few years back ( Power Bedding) Maby if ya can find a copy it would help you with your pin idea. Ill look I may have a copy. BILL
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Post by Itrapny on Dec 10, 2006 8:58:21 GMT -5
The peg method has been discussed in a couple of different articles/books, the one that comes to mind is a reference in the Charles Dobbins book Land Sets and Trapping Techiques. Charles states that he learned this method from a trapper named Josh Pheonix at a trappers convention in the NE a long time ago. He used three wooden or steel pegs that are driven into the ground, 2 on the dog side and 1 on the loose jaw side to prevent the trap from moving. Although I have never tried it, it should work very well in areas that are rocky or in frozen ground conditions.
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Post by mole on Dec 12, 2006 19:10:47 GMT -5
Thanks again my friends. I am enjoying this. Take Care Ed
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2006 23:03:49 GMT -5
I think you have a good idea there to stop maybe the tipsy stuff, but what about them flipping up the loose jaw? How tight is the cloths pin holding the loose jaw? I tried the power bedding method when using hulls and peat moss to bed traps. I still have problems with some of them sliding into the trap bed and finding the loose jaw in those materials.
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Post by smccray on Dec 14, 2006 17:14:31 GMT -5
Anymore when I bed traps with PeatMoss I make it a mixture. I prefer Sand, because it make a bit more solid surface, but I will use dirt if need be, and when it starts to get real cold, I will mix in some salt as well. I thought about trying something at one time, but I am afraid the animals will get hung up on it. I was thinking of putting a piece on the loose jaw, that was small and L shaped so when you twist in the trap it would help hold down the loose jaw, but I figured that the animal would just wrap the chain up in it and get leverage.
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