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Post by jimd on Dec 6, 2006 1:11:47 GMT -5
All of you that have doubted this set, now is the time to use the bottom edge set. The air is cold enough to drive the mink into the water. I set a few beaver traps sunday and with the temp dropping, I had to put my last 2 #110s I had with me in bottom edge sets. Out of 2 traps, the next check got me a nice fat rat and a big buck mink. Both under the ice. The next check got me 2 more rats. Both sets are in about 2 ft of water on the outside bend of a stream where the water is the deepest.
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Post by minkman on Dec 6, 2006 7:58:10 GMT -5
Hi jimd, its a great set ;D ;D I have ken's book and video. This set shines after ice-up. Caught my first mink on this set. I find around here it works best at culvert pools with a point sticking out. Have fun!!! Mike
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Post by fingerlakesfur on Dec 6, 2006 8:17:20 GMT -5
My favorite mink set......I can catch more mink after ice up then I can any other time because of this set.
Took a little time to master.....but once you know what to look for and how to set the trap thats all there is to it.....you could easily put out 100 a weekend
Targets mink swimming upstream on the slack side
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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2006 10:11:41 GMT -5
I like this set also when conditions are right. I caught a 42 lb beaver in a 220 one time in this set. I've been using the single spring Duke 160's on a long H-type stabilizer for this set and had good luck last season taking a few rats. I kind of like the bigger 160 traps for this set, better than the 110's.
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Post by buckhunter649 on Dec 6, 2006 10:17:16 GMT -5
I need some instructions on this set. I have mink in the area but am not connecting. Can someone write directions for making it and good locations for it? Thanks, Steve
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Post by jimd on Dec 6, 2006 10:32:30 GMT -5
Steve , i have the book in the store, come check it out. The videos are very helpful, I own the mink and beaver trapping video. I have no problems using the #110s but i like using the #160s alot better. I like to have the larger trap set just in case an otter comes thru. Yes, I whacked an otter in one a couple years ago.
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Post by kkbait on Dec 6, 2006 13:41:32 GMT -5
bobber how long are the stabilizers that you have for the 160's??
Jim what are the tallest you have for the 160's ?? thanks kkbait
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Post by minkman on Dec 6, 2006 15:53:42 GMT -5
Hi Steve, let me try and help you with this. First off the size trap you use depends on your target, I use 110s, if you have beaver and otter in your area you may wanna adjust. For a stabilizer I use a stick. Also attach about 3ft of wire to the ring. Now for location. The main location will be a point that juts out into the creek, not all points will be good. You need the point near another attractor, for example a caved in muskrat den, culvert pool, drift pile, were a feeder stream enters the creek, exposed root system. Now the point could be a rock , log, hump of grass or a concrete bridge abutment. What the mink likes to do is ambush his prey. He wants to surprise whats on the other side of the point. Frogs, fish and feeding muskrats like to use the still waters beyond points. Think like a mink ;D ;D It is very important that your trap be set against the edge and on the bottom right on the outer most point. Sometimes on the grass points you can feel with the toe of your boot the grove were the mink and rats are going. Don't get discouraged if you see tracks on the bank above your set they will eventually find your trap. This set is great because it wont freeze in, is easy to set, and you can run many traps. I use this set 98% of my line. Any ?s feel free to call me at 585-469-1995. Mike
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Post by martinsmodified on Dec 6, 2006 15:58:57 GMT -5
ive borrowed this idea from an experienced water trapper: attatch 110 to a window weight. set trap up against wall/bank/rock and use the window weight as a stabilizer.
it guides, stabilizes and acts as a drag all at the same time. i can set up a bridge with 2 traps in 1 minute. it takes longer to get down the embankment and/or check the traps ;D
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2006 7:10:22 GMT -5
Kkbait, the stabilizers are 24" long H type with the handle on top. I got them when I ordered the single spring 160's from Tom Olson's. In a pinch, if you have access to a welder, you could just weld some 5'16" rod or 3/8" re-rod to a regular H type stabilizer that maybe JimD has, and increase the length that way. They help keep you dry, and help me alot, as my fingers are arthritic and cold really hurts! I used to think that they looked un-natural, but they work and are easier than using sticks and they speed up set making. One other thing I've noticed is good stabilizers decrease the number of misses from wobbly traps.
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Post by kkbait on Dec 7, 2006 7:17:25 GMT -5
thanks bobber I will have to check it out. I have the 24" ones for 110's and they work great.
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Post by martinsmodified on Dec 10, 2006 21:14:56 GMT -5
works in anywhere from 3" to 3' of water. great for mink/rats alike.
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Post by Itrapny on Dec 10, 2006 21:31:43 GMT -5
Great pic! They always say a picture is worth a million words.
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Post by walkonwater on Dec 11, 2006 1:55:03 GMT -5
There is no guiding or fencing above the trap? Just tight to the bottom and edge?
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Post by minkman on Dec 11, 2006 6:38:52 GMT -5
Thats all there is to it ;D ;D There has been a pile of mink caught in pocket sets but with the freeze thaw and high water, low water this set is the ticket. Mike
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