Post by TrapWorks on Feb 15, 2010 12:10:09 GMT -5
HI all, I thought I would put up some pictures of the mink snares I use, I know a lot of you can't snare yet but always look to the future.
There are a lo of pics in this post so I will waffle first and then put the pics up.
I mainly snare mink on fallen logs, either at the side of a stream running parallel or across a stream on a fallen log. You can also snare on a mink run but then you run a risk of them chewing out. Another good set is an elbow set with a snare at the entrance to the bottom hole. I always use a jump stick for mink as they do not run level but rather bound along, making it difficult to know where to set the snare.
One of the best and simplest ways of snaring is to find a log or tree running over or across a stream or creek, these animals love to run along these for the height advantage. Although aquatic, mink actually prefer to keep dry when possible and mainly take to the water in times of danger or when crossing on dry land is possible.
I use 1mm steel cable (1.5mm in pipes and elbow sets), the kind you use for sea fishing to make up traces. Although an acceptable loop can be made to form the snare I prefer to use an eyelet of some sort. Often I use the same brass eyelets that I would use for rabbit snares. This is formed into the snare length and then crimped in place using the small aluminum or steel ferrules that are supplied with the wire. Having an eyelet allows the snare to run 3 or 4 times faster than on bare wire alone. If the wire comes plastic coated this should be stripped off.
I make the snare noose 5 inches across and load it in a similar manner to a fox snare, this ensures the noose fires closed the second animal touches the inside of the noose.
Set the 5 inch noose approximately 5 inches high from the surface of the log to the bottom of the snare loop and place a sharpened jump stick directly under the noose leaving a gap of around 1.5 inches between the stick and the bottom of the snare. A match stick, cocktail stick or long thorn is usually best. It is put in place by lifting a little of the bark from the log with a knife point and bedding the jump stick in the slit made. Like all animals, the mink is as lazy as it is allowed to be and so having a small jump stick will ensure it lifts its head as it moves passed he snare, the small gap between the snare and the stick is sufficient to allow the front legs to go under the snare. Body or hip snaring a mink will result in a chew out.
As the mink struggles or panics it enters the water and is simply held by the wire. A small improvement on this is to use another piece of wire with a loop in one end and a weight attached to the other. The loop is passed over the snare before setting and the weight is laid along the log. When the animal enters the water the weight is dragged off and slides down the noose wire against the animals neck, this aides in a quicker death and prevents the animal from turning on the noose wire.
There should be very little if any damage to the pelt using this method, it also has the advantage of low visibility to either prey animals or humans and once a catch is made the target animal is under water where it is out of sight and harms way.
When using an elbow set I use a jump stick for the same reasons as above, simply to cause the animal to lift its head and to aim the front feet.
I hope I haven't rambled on too long and sent you to sleep...
Below are some pictures of the different nooses I use.
A breakaway link incorporating a brass eyelet, the fastest running snare you will ever see. The breakaway is used in locations where otters may be present, they are protected in Britain.
A link made from one of the links from a bicycle chain, cheap and cheerful, thats me!
A mink micro lock, useful on larger sized cables but very little use on 1mm cable.
Here is a small version of the link I use on my fox snares, simple to make and use, made from 1.5mm galvanized fence wire.
Here is a basic eye formed from a brass eyelet inserted into the wire and crimped in place.
I hope you found this interesting and useful.
All the best to all
TW
There are a lo of pics in this post so I will waffle first and then put the pics up.
I mainly snare mink on fallen logs, either at the side of a stream running parallel or across a stream on a fallen log. You can also snare on a mink run but then you run a risk of them chewing out. Another good set is an elbow set with a snare at the entrance to the bottom hole. I always use a jump stick for mink as they do not run level but rather bound along, making it difficult to know where to set the snare.
One of the best and simplest ways of snaring is to find a log or tree running over or across a stream or creek, these animals love to run along these for the height advantage. Although aquatic, mink actually prefer to keep dry when possible and mainly take to the water in times of danger or when crossing on dry land is possible.
I use 1mm steel cable (1.5mm in pipes and elbow sets), the kind you use for sea fishing to make up traces. Although an acceptable loop can be made to form the snare I prefer to use an eyelet of some sort. Often I use the same brass eyelets that I would use for rabbit snares. This is formed into the snare length and then crimped in place using the small aluminum or steel ferrules that are supplied with the wire. Having an eyelet allows the snare to run 3 or 4 times faster than on bare wire alone. If the wire comes plastic coated this should be stripped off.
I make the snare noose 5 inches across and load it in a similar manner to a fox snare, this ensures the noose fires closed the second animal touches the inside of the noose.
Set the 5 inch noose approximately 5 inches high from the surface of the log to the bottom of the snare loop and place a sharpened jump stick directly under the noose leaving a gap of around 1.5 inches between the stick and the bottom of the snare. A match stick, cocktail stick or long thorn is usually best. It is put in place by lifting a little of the bark from the log with a knife point and bedding the jump stick in the slit made. Like all animals, the mink is as lazy as it is allowed to be and so having a small jump stick will ensure it lifts its head as it moves passed he snare, the small gap between the snare and the stick is sufficient to allow the front legs to go under the snare. Body or hip snaring a mink will result in a chew out.
As the mink struggles or panics it enters the water and is simply held by the wire. A small improvement on this is to use another piece of wire with a loop in one end and a weight attached to the other. The loop is passed over the snare before setting and the weight is laid along the log. When the animal enters the water the weight is dragged off and slides down the noose wire against the animals neck, this aides in a quicker death and prevents the animal from turning on the noose wire.
There should be very little if any damage to the pelt using this method, it also has the advantage of low visibility to either prey animals or humans and once a catch is made the target animal is under water where it is out of sight and harms way.
When using an elbow set I use a jump stick for the same reasons as above, simply to cause the animal to lift its head and to aim the front feet.
I hope I haven't rambled on too long and sent you to sleep...
Below are some pictures of the different nooses I use.
A breakaway link incorporating a brass eyelet, the fastest running snare you will ever see. The breakaway is used in locations where otters may be present, they are protected in Britain.
A link made from one of the links from a bicycle chain, cheap and cheerful, thats me!
A mink micro lock, useful on larger sized cables but very little use on 1mm cable.
Here is a small version of the link I use on my fox snares, simple to make and use, made from 1.5mm galvanized fence wire.
Here is a basic eye formed from a brass eyelet inserted into the wire and crimped in place.
I hope you found this interesting and useful.
All the best to all
TW