This is not a how to... this how I do... or did at any rate..
I am kind of new to this game, those who know of me know I am more of a snare man and squirrel trapper, but I have seen a lot of mink tracks down by a small river lately and I thought I would have a go... bear with me...
In this country we must by law cover all spring traps with a cage or 'cubby'. The law actually states that spring traps must be set in a tunnel, whether artificial or natural - so we use tunnels mostly of wire mesh.
Here is a simple tealer to make which will hold up a body grip trap, this is then pushed into the ground to the desired height, traps can be set on these at home, taken to the site and set in literally seconds. Great for setting on rat runs (Rattus Norwegicus).
Here is the jig to bend the 4mm wire around.
Here is one of the cubbies I use when a tunnel is required, this will hold the trap firmly in the set position, giving a completely safe cover to the trap for non targets.
Thanks to Wayne and the Nick Paolo auction here is one of my almost new Body Grips.
My first mink set, set into the river bank on a flood line around 6 feet from the main flow.
Another set where mink tracks show they come out of the water onto the bank.
Another set under a bush by the edge of the water amongst the flotsam.
Bait is fish from the freezer. (Don't tell the wife...)
If any one has any improvements, critisisms, or advice I will gladly listen!
Looks good to me Dave ! Whats that thingy over the trigger in the one photo? I like to take the triggers and bend them in a circle , each side to the jaws . I know some fellers go a bit farther and put a bit of fishing line on the bottom between the triggers .
Last Edit: Mar 11, 2009 16:42:41 GMT -5 by flatiron
What the British couldn't do at gun point is now done in courts of law by men in black robes
Bloodthirsty you are spot on. It is a simple safety catch which prevents the dog from jumping up and allowing the trap to spring.
I find them excellent when setting traps in awkward places where a safety on the handles would be difficult to work with. As you push the safety off from above with one finger, this action pushes the dog down onto the jaws and helps set the trap, also being able to flick off a safety from above if things to go pear shaped, then precious digits are away from the jaws ;D
Thanks for the replies so far fellas, I thought someone would tell me I'm doing it all wrong!
Well, I went to check the traps this morning with no joy, but as I approached the wood from the field this fellas comes out from behind a tree only 5 yards away
By the time I got the camera out he had run off and I only managed to snap one pic with the short lens and didn't give the camers time to focus... but he stopped and posed for this one before showing me his hind quarters for the last time.
Very glad to help Cooper67, It's another thing I didn't design but have used on every trap since I first saw them. I am never too sure if my posts will go down well on this forum as the difference in our trapping techniques and laws is vast, but if someone finds my posts useful tghen I will keep right on doing it!
All the best to all
PS for Von.
Do you bend the triggers out or in Von?
Last Edit: Mar 12, 2009 10:40:23 GMT -5 by TrapWorks
Update. Not a sausage... Since the small flood which cleaned all the tracks from the bankside there has been no sign whatsoever of mink... I was too late...
I will keep the traps in place anyway and change the bait every week or so as mink at this time of the year are on the move to mate etc. I had everything crossed this morning when I went to check and found nothing except this...
This is the damage the Roe deer do when sloughing off the velvet.
Last Edit: Mar 16, 2009 9:52:41 GMT -5 by TrapWorks
can you explain that coni stand at all? looks good but not sure if i quite understand how it sits on the wire. maybe just a close up with a 110 on it? good luck with the mink too, addictive little creatures!
Hey Woj. I understand what you mean, but when I designed them I did so that the trap rested on the shoulder of the stand before the 'U' shape touched the trigger. If it does happen, then simply bend the 'U' slightly lower. It's also a good reason to use the safety catch
These are made narrow enough to slip the trap on, then when setting the trap I pull the legs gently apart before sticking them in the ground, this creates a better tension on the trap and holds them in place better.
It is used to aletr the width of the stand Scott, also whn they protrude up beyond the height of the trap they are easily carried. You could easily make one the way you suggest just to try out, almost any wire will do to practice on.
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