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Post by Itrapny on Jul 27, 2007 11:49:35 GMT -5
Pick your location and pole, typically on a ridge for me, fisher use them as travel ways. Secure the pole to the main tree with wire if on public land or you can nail it in on private land with permission. Place you bait (beaver or muskrat works good) and secure well, I wire mine down so mice, weasels, etc. can't drag it away. Set your trap and secure it in place, once again you can either wire it or nail it in place, leaving the safety hooks installed on the trap at this time. I use cable and a quick link to secure mine around the pole itself. Notice how I positioned the springs up and have the trigger spread out and pointing down on the backside (towards the bait). This presents a more inviting hole to enter through and makes sure if using a 160 instead of a 220 that a large male fisher or 'coon will get it's head through the trap before it fires. Place pine boughs over the trap and bait to camouflage it a little. Don't forget to cover the bait so birds don't see it, you don't want a blue jay or crow setting off your trap. If you have positioned the springs of the conibear up when you set your trap and run a small sticks through both springs, it gives you a nice base to build your boughs onto. I secure my boughs with wire so they don't blow away too. Just remember to take the safety hooks off the conibear before you leave and ensure that when the animal is caught it won't be suspended, at a minimum, the tail must touch the ground.
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Post by jdpaint on Jul 28, 2007 22:13:02 GMT -5
Great pics , is the trap about 4 or 5 feet off the ground and what angle is the pole maybe 45 degrees? Thanks
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Post by Itrapny on Jul 29, 2007 6:18:53 GMT -5
The pole's at about 45 degrees up to 60 degress and yes, it's about 4-5 feet up.
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Post by Issiah on Aug 4, 2007 7:27:43 GMT -5
Any special way of modifying the trigger?
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Post by Itrapny on Aug 4, 2007 7:43:26 GMT -5
I don't, you can buy what they call coni-pans, which basically converts the trigger into a trap pan so when the animal steps on it the traps fires similar to a foothold though. It gives the animal a clear view through the trap but personally, I don't think those triggers are even noticed by the animal when they are used to sticks & vines, etc, hanging all around them on a daily basis.
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Post by Issiah on Aug 4, 2007 7:53:29 GMT -5
No problem with animals getting past the stock triggers without firing the trap?
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Post by Itrapny on Aug 4, 2007 7:56:39 GMT -5
Nope
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Derek
#2 Newhouse
Posts: 2,099
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Post by Derek on Aug 4, 2007 12:04:45 GMT -5
what animal is this for?
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Post by Itrapny on Aug 4, 2007 14:41:48 GMT -5
The leaning pole set is designed for fisher & marten but you can catch 'coon, mink, weasel & occasionally gray fox & bobcats in them
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Post by fingerlakesfur on Aug 7, 2007 9:06:15 GMT -5
I am by no means a fisher trapper....that being said
Whats to stop a fisher from ignoring the pole, climbing the tree, and working the bait from the back?
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Post by Itrapny on Aug 7, 2007 9:15:58 GMT -5
Path of least resistance Good question Dale! I use primarily dirt-holes for my fisher trapping but when I do use a leaning pole set I'll lay a trial of fish oil up the pole the lead them in so to speak.
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Post by Adirondack-Jim on Aug 7, 2007 13:38:26 GMT -5
Do you ever place a dirt hole set in the vacinity of a leaning pole set?
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Post by Itrapny on Aug 7, 2007 13:47:52 GMT -5
Always, a lot of the area I trap in farmland or broken farmland and the lure will call in not only fisher, but fox & coyotes too. I know there are a few fox, both grays and even reds caught every year in leaning poles sets but I don't ever recall a coyote being taken in one. I have a limited time to trap and don't want to miss an opportunity.
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Post by brandonh on Aug 7, 2007 16:49:36 GMT -5
I'd never set a leaning pole like that for the very reason that Dale mentioned. Fisher can work it from the back side. I always look for a freestanding tree. If there are no freestanding trees, I use a wire cage and 160.
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Post by buckhunter649 on Aug 14, 2007 16:15:03 GMT -5
I noticed that the "coni-clip" you are using is only being used as a hook for the upper jaw of the trap. Is this by design? Or just the wrong size clip?
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Post by Itrapny on Aug 14, 2007 16:32:55 GMT -5
Never noticed, it just the way I set it up??
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Post by martinsmodified on Aug 14, 2007 17:46:04 GMT -5
i make an effort (if needed) to surround the tree w/clippings to keep them from doing just such a thing. might sound like a lot but those dead branches in the background would work fine and take about 3 extra minutes.
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Post by Issiah on Aug 16, 2007 18:05:10 GMT -5
Anyone have any suggestions for a bait other than beaver or muskrat? I plan on putting a couple of these sets out before i'll have a chance to trap any beaver or muskrat. Was thinking squirrel, rabbit, fish because they'd be easy to obtain in the fall. What about grouse? Is it ok to freeze the baits before using them?
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Post by buckhunter649 on Aug 16, 2007 19:42:43 GMT -5
Grouse? That's the best eating in NYS...don't waste that on bait ?
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Post by Issiah on Aug 16, 2007 20:03:24 GMT -5
I hear yah there! It would be hard to part with one for bait. Especially if it took a whole day (Or two) to get one!
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Post by martinsmodified on Aug 16, 2007 20:12:19 GMT -5
Grouse? That's the best eating in NYS...don't waste that on bait ? here, here! save them for the table! scraps of deer(anything not worthy of eating except the guts) from early bow hunters will work. ive also heard fish works but have never tried it. someone even mentioned the dec using ham as bait for a study they were doing. maybe the dec knows something we dont ;D they are a weasel at heart so id think anything bloody would work. dont skimp on the skunk. the burn will draw them in then they need something to look at. i like some snow on the ground as it highlights the red drippings from the bait and makes it stick out like a sore thumb overall. i rub the bait up and down the pole a few times to rough it up a bit and give em something to get excited about as they jump through the evergreen square ;D
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Post by Adirondack-Jim on Aug 18, 2007 19:04:38 GMT -5
I've had reasonable results using the left-overs after cleaning grouse, ducks and woodcock. I beleive the feathers are a real attactant but like to use some additional venison, moose, etc. to make it look like a real meal worth investigating.
Late season duck skins with the heavy fat layer seem to be attractive to fisher. I had the head and neck skin of a duck down to the breast area in a cage cubby with the trigger wires on a 220 bent wayy back in. The fisher it caught was feeding on the heavy fat layer next to the skin before it fired the trap.
I've given up on using grey squirrels. Tried them for a couple of seaons with skin on, skin off and partially skinned. Seemed to hold little attraction early in the season. Squirrel, rabbit, muskrat and mink seem to dry out very quickly. Probably be better later in the season than early. If you don't have access to beaver, venison trimmings with lots of fat seem to work well. You can usually get the rib and belly trimmings with a good amount of fat on them.
My $0.02 for what it's worth...
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Post by Issiah on Aug 18, 2007 20:02:39 GMT -5
Thanks Jim! Thats a big help!
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Post by Issiah on Sept 4, 2007 17:16:28 GMT -5
Any tricks to holding venison scraps on the tree limb?
Would the entire rib cage be overkill?
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Post by Itrapny on Sept 4, 2007 18:15:35 GMT -5
Wire it! I'd use half a rib cage per set, maybe even a quarter. It's the lure that calls'um in, the bait just gets them into the trap.
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