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Post by proratman on May 23, 2012 19:52:11 GMT -5
When a mink is swimming on the surface, and it comes to a dive stick, will the majority just duck under it, or will they go to the bottom? Thanks in advance
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oldeman
Fulton Montgomery Fur Harvesters Ass.
Posts: 581
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Post by oldeman on May 23, 2012 21:11:55 GMT -5
Unless the water is quite deep most will go to the bottom.on small streams ditches and runs a160 with a 4 way trigger ought to get your mink.
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Post by proratman on May 23, 2012 21:13:36 GMT -5
Thanks Oldeman
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Post by centro44 on May 23, 2012 21:46:17 GMT -5
im not too sure but with the bottom edge set, the trap is placed directly at the bottom and i dont use a dive stick, just a stick that is guiding them close to the back......they could easily go over the stick......i took a good number of rats and mink this year with the bottom edge set......first time i used it and man did i like it......it is the first set a look for now in a creek or swamp.......just never tryed it in years past
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Post by bballou on May 24, 2012 5:44:17 GMT -5
Every trapper has own way of doing things ---and most are happy with how they do things.---I would never say what they do is wrong------ But my observations have told me ---each mink has his own persionality---today he may dive to the bottom at the dive stick---this afternoon he may go over ---and tonight he may go jest under ---- etc ---etc.-----IMO ---a trapper has to play the odds------ and figure out how to put the mink through the trap--- the higher % of times--- and one strait small stick isnt in the ball park.----Also please remember because the mink goes through the conni-bear dont mean he will spring the trap. I think there was a study back in the 70's where a mink went through a 110 ---21 times before he sprung the trap.----So other than the stick ---and a minks ability to go through small spaces--- and the mink them selves -----there are a few more answers that have to be found. ---before putting many of the little buggers on the boards year after year.
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Post by centro44 on May 24, 2012 7:50:35 GMT -5
i had a 110 in a culvert that kept being tripped for 3 days......re-adjusted the trigger and had a female mink the next day......but as bill stated you shouldnt just use one stick......same as beaver trapping you may end up useing 10 sticks.........little secret for you, use 210s for your sets.......catch rate will increase
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Post by proratman on May 24, 2012 8:29:35 GMT -5
I have used the Bottom Edge Set with good success. However, I believe that for every mink I catch in a Bottom Edge Set along a bridge wall, ten mink are swimming over the trap on the surface. Fresh tracks in the snow suggest this.
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Post by bballou on May 24, 2012 15:53:05 GMT -5
proratman ----I STAND AS STRAIT AS I CAN ---- AND --- I-----SALUTE YOU---- you bet them mink go through and over them traps ---and in large numbers. But you dont hear about what the trappers are doing to solve this problem. IS THERE ANYTHING GOING ON I SURE DONT FIND MINK GOING OVER OR THROUGH MY TRAPS ACCEPTIABLE.
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Post by centro44 on May 24, 2012 16:08:25 GMT -5
well put in the bottom edge set and then throw in a pocket set or cubby along with it.........trapping is all luck.....maybe today they will swim at the bottom tomorrow they wont
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oldeman
Fulton Montgomery Fur Harvesters Ass.
Posts: 581
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Post by oldeman on May 24, 2012 20:20:50 GMT -5
I have been checking sets made in small creeks and spring runs for several years now and have discovered that the vast majotity of the time a mink will leave the water and go around the trap if going upstream but will sail right through the same trap going downstream, Conibears with pans instead of trigger wires changed this to about eaven odds.Trail cams are a wonderful tool if you put them in the right places.
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Post by centro44 on May 24, 2012 20:30:59 GMT -5
but will a swimming mink push down while swimming through the conibear???just like a rat, swim with there feet tucked back and there back feet pushing back.......yet not putting a foot on the pan?
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oldeman
Fulton Montgomery Fur Harvesters Ass.
Posts: 581
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Post by oldeman on May 24, 2012 21:23:24 GMT -5
I have not figured out yet how to check this out in deeper water since it is nearly impossible to get good pictures .I do know that using 4way triggers on the smaller conis helps a lot and that when placing a diving stick i look for as large a stick or log as i can find it makes it easier to place it so that it is more difficult to go over and might help make them dive deeper this has long been one of my favorite sets for mink using conis and I have had pretty good luck using it.
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Post by centro44 on May 25, 2012 10:44:13 GMT -5
i hear you.......im yet to try a 210 or 220 for mink because the trigger VS. jaw area seems a little off to where i think a mink could miss the trigger especially a female........but it happens all the time, guys take them in 210s and 220s.......ive always used smaller conis because i didnt want to chance a miss
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Post by proratman on May 25, 2012 12:49:55 GMT -5
Here is another twist to this post. In referce to the Bottom edge Set. Where I live there are a lot of muskrats. The past couple weeks I have walked down to the creek by my house in the evening and watch the rats swimming around and even mating from the bridge. I know that the BE set is just as deadly on rats. But why is it that every rat I observe is swimming on the surface along the edge of the bank. Occasionally a rat will duck under the surface. How many rats are swimming over the traps, especially along a bridge wall? We have got to put our thinking caps on. Is it acceptable when 10 bobcats walk by or 10 otters swim by your sets.
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Post by J.P. Wilson on May 25, 2012 13:25:31 GMT -5
I like 110's for BE sets all the way up to 220's for mink. each location dictates the size of the trap for me. I personally like the v shape for triggers either upside down or the v. Mink basically dog paddle under water with all fours. i'm not sure if that is their main way of swimming but it has been every time i have seen them theyre sight is also blurry while underwater and the trap looks like good structure for them to swim through is why i feel like you dont need a ton of fencing especially if your on location for the BE set.
Triggers and trap size----- my spin on it is if you have a small are fenced off to no end they are either going to weasel their way through it because they can or go around because it is easier for them. While when you have a slightly larger trap where the mink doesnt feel like they are forced into something they just bump the trigger wires and its all over with. It's very controversial subject and thats my opinion. The reason i tried the larger traps is because you have misses with 110's anyways so what do you have to lose.
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Post by centro44 on May 25, 2012 15:51:07 GMT -5
You both have good points......my only way I can think to get the animal to the bottom is a dive stick.....but many places there are cement walls and floor.......therefore having to use a KB stabilizer.......I then just use a 12 inch long by 3 inch stick and lean it over the trap making a triangle.......but I've also found making a bottom edge set for rats with a 220, trap shy beaver will plug them.......and the bottom edge set with a 150 Bridger, don't get me started with the 150.......I just hope the duke 150 is better
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Post by proratman on May 25, 2012 15:56:58 GMT -5
Is the #160 a better option than a #110 for mink and rat BE sets? Larger opening and less refusals.
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Post by oldtimer on May 25, 2012 16:17:57 GMT -5
i can add another twist solder a copper braded troling line to every coni and round out a hole with plyers about 3.5 in. in dia. catch rate will go up about triple .
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Post by bballou on May 25, 2012 17:41:47 GMT -5
oldtimer---- "right on target'---also larger---longer--- trigger wires---can be shaped---with a couple additions---so you can rely increase the catch ratio. TIME FOR A SIDE STORY----this spring my partner and I----figured some of out 12 by16's werent produceing enough beaver so we worked on them a bit---we may as well catch some muskrats---a lot better than a empty trap----we must have did a good job because we started catching fish---some times 2 fish---and none were over 12 in.------with a bit of thinking and some experimenting you can do a lot to improve your fur check.
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Post by clt on May 26, 2012 8:00:19 GMT -5
I like the BE after ice myself.You will see way higher catch rates with both mink and rats after you get some ice.Single spring 160's or 220's are better than 110's in my opinion,trigger on the bottom and bent into a T or bent into a semi circle with wire between the trigger tips.Before ice I like to set BE under overhanging banks or under root balls.You will catch way more mink at undercut banks and root balls, or similar cover, than out on a flat straight bank,points are good also.
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Post by proratman on May 26, 2012 12:15:45 GMT -5
You are definitely right about after ice up. Jim Spencer has told me that the BE does not work at all down in the deep south. It also works good here durring real nasty weather.
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Post by centro44 on May 26, 2012 12:38:21 GMT -5
i had good luck with it here during the spring for rats and mink.......
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Post by proratman on May 26, 2012 15:38:42 GMT -5
I am working on an idea for a new set. I am calling it my "Noodle Set". I am going to try to explain the construction of it. I have made a prototype of it but have not had the time to float test it. This would be used under a bridge with slow moving water and a nice straight bridge wall with a flat bottom. To start out with, place a cinder block 8"x8"x16" with 3 holes about 6" off the bridge wall with its holes facing up and its 16" length extending away from the wall creating a right angle. The 6" space creates the perfect BE. Now take two 2"x2" s that extend from the stream floor to above the waterline. Stick one in each outside hole and wedge them in place securely (preferably before submerging). Take a piece of 2"x 8" x36" that will float over the cinder block. This is the floating dive stick. In the 2"x8", notch two 2 1/2" holes in the center of it where the two upright 2 "x2 "s will slide up through. On the bottom side of the 2"x8" on the edge by the bridge wall attach either a coni-holder or four roofing nails to suspend the trap. Attach two "Swimming Pool Noodles" (one each side) to the 2"x8". Try to get them in a V shape to encourage the mink or rats to hug the wall where the two traps are. At the far end of the upstream noodle, attach a wire and tie it off to a rock to hold the float board perpendicular to the bridge wall. I am planning on trying three of these in the fall. Hope I did not confuse anyone. This is totally against the K.I.S.S. method. The problem I see with this set is that it is going to catch a lot of debris. Any ideas?
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Post by bballou on May 26, 2012 21:11:26 GMT -5
You will never know unless you try-----its your time----give it a try----who knows you may end up with a 5 year smile on your face. I do love the KISS -method---- I have tryed a few time consuming sets--- you have to try.----- you may come up with a good set.
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Post by J.P. Wilson on May 27, 2012 8:27:22 GMT -5
Look in Don Powell's book using railroad tieplates with a stabilizer welded to the bottom and a 110 hooks onto it that is your bottom edge and than in one of the holes in the tie plate he welds a piece of smooth rod and runs it straight up about 3 feet and puts a wood platform with a foot hold trap that is fully adjustable on the smooth rod just under the surface of the water so you catch the ones on the bottom and the top. The set works great along bridge walls and you can even add a third trap in the middle if you desire
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